About forty yachts lie peacefully at anchor in Cid Harbour, a single white anchor light shining at each masthead. Duyfken slips in among them and drops her anchor before anyone on any of the boats is awake. As folk rise, stretch and look around at the idyllic surroundings they tend to do a comical double take when they see what has crept into their anchorage while they were sleeping. Many of them disappear, reemerging moments later with cameras to make the most of the dawn light. As the boats heave up their anchor and head off for a day's cruising around the Whitsundays, they detour past the Duyfken for a closer look. Some already know about the ship, but many others ask what the name of the ship is. There is no name painted anywhere on Duyfken, in keeping with the custom of the era. 'What a magnificent sight,' says a passing yachtsman. 'Thanks,' replies Greg. 'What do you think of the ship?' Duyfken receives compliment after compliment as the yachts file out one by one. The crew start to sound like a cracked record answering the same questions forty times. 'She was built in Fremantle.' 'We are heading for Mackay.' 'Nine permanent crew and eight voyage crew.' 'Yes, she does have engines.' While the voyage crew go bush-walking in the national park, the permanent crew get on with some maintenance. If you have to work, these are about the most agreeable conditions to do it in. Calm blue water out to one side of the ship, tree-covered hills to the other. In the late afternoon we make a quick trip across to Nara Inlet. This magnificent bay cutting into the southern shore of Hook Island is more like a fjord than anything else. We meet up with another tall ship, Solway Lass. Her mate, James, is an old shipmate of mine: we crossed the Indian Ocean in Bounty. James invites Duyfken's crew over for a party. Unfortunately bad health keeps me from joining them. I am rugged up in my hammock and sleeping bag despite the warm evening, but I can hear the guitar, bongo and revelling voices drifting across the calm water and in through the cabin windows until well after midnight. There may be some sore heads at breakfast tomorrow.